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Post by mattsedgley on Dec 29, 2008 23:49:47 GMT
OK so in the past we've had a few different threads talking about body styles and which one each of us prefers..
Now.. here comes the question!?
How many of you use cans? and how many of you use Airbrush tools??
Those of you who use airbrush, what paints do you use, and how far does the paint go?? Normally I use cans, and find that I use roughly 3/4 of a can per body if it's a solid colour.. is this more or less than others??
Matt ;D
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Post by yellowshark on Dec 30, 2008 6:24:04 GMT
Can for me. My tombstone will probably say " here lies Pete: he led a full life apart form learning how to use an airbrush"
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 9:38:47 GMT
For me Matt its about convenience (lazyness) In the past I have used an air brush with pactra paints but theses days my shells are pretty simple so for me an air brush is not needed.Fancy shells dont do it for me, some are hard to tell apart on the track Tins can be Expensive but the base coat/s can be backed with a cheaper Cellulose/Acrylic can of a similar colour.A motorist discount Alloy wheel silver is a good backing to give many colours some depth.a large can of Appliance white is handy for a backing colour too!! There is a down side to using cans.Weight! you will be surprised how much paint weighs.Carefull use of an air brush on multi coloured shells can save a lot of weight Down side to the air brush...cleaning out the pots and gun afterwards and the need for a reasonable compressor. Simple block patterns/colours for me,be reconised!...K.I.S
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Post by mattsedgley on Dec 30, 2008 11:33:55 GMT
Thanks for the help guys! - I stumbled across a nice compressor yesterday in B+Q.. not quite sure what I'll do with it, however at 30quid it seemed like a bargain!
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 14:02:19 GMT
Thanks for the help guys! - I stumbled across a nice compressor yesterday in B+Q.. not quite sure what I'll do with it, however at 30quid it seemed like a bargain! Matt is it direct feed?...ie no reservoir tank. Direct feed compressors, piston or diaphram type can make an air brush "pulse" spray
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Post by Reuben on Dec 30, 2008 15:02:52 GMT
for me its wham-bam-super-spray-can.
but the trick is decent masking tape, last paint job i did on my mini shell didnt go to well - under the heat-gun the glue melted and the paint bled under the masking.
So anyone know any decent masking?
oh and I havent tried an air brush yet - but dad has a proper air compresser and air brush next shell i may give it a go.
But the length of time shells last sometimes the time/effort of air brushing is wasted?
But I am with les on the idea of blocky/bold colours.
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 16:57:08 GMT
for me its wham-bam-super-spray-can. but the trick is decent masking tape, last paint job i did on my mini shell didnt go to well - under the heat-gun the glue melted and the paint bled under the masking. So anyone know any decent masking? oh and I havent tried an air brush yet - but dad has a proper air compresser and air brush next shell i may give it a go. But the length of time shells last sometimes the time/effort of air brushing is wasted? But I am with les on the idea of blocky/bold colours. Std masking tape Reubs is a waste of time if you need a clean line.If the first coat is put on too wet it will always creep under the tape.The first coat should always be a dust coat only, and should be allowed to dry compleetly to seal the tape edges. The best tape to use is 3mm "fine line tape" found in the auto motive trade.
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Post by mattsedgley on Dec 30, 2008 17:00:27 GMT
Nah it's got a 6litre tank - wanted it for car tyres and blowing the dirt off stuff - airbrushing just seems like a bit of fun, I enjoy spraying shells... I'll watch out on fleabay for some pactra paints.. and a little airbrush kit!!
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Post by Martin Young on Dec 30, 2008 17:07:34 GMT
In the past I have used an air brush with pactra paints;) I used spray cans for many years, but the last couple of shells i've sprayed I have used an airbrush. I've used pactra paints but find them very difficult to get right, also solvent based so you need a can of suitable solvent to thin them and clean the airbrush. I find Faskolor paints so much easier to use with an airbrush (thinned and cleaned with just tap water) and a pot of faskolor paint will do at least 10 shells so if you have an airbrush it is cheaper than buying cans. You can still do simple block colour schemes with an airbrush although it would take slightly longer than a can having to clean the brush after each colour. The bit i still find dificult is the masking it usually takes longer to mask the shell up than spray it. I use airbrush masking film but too be honest it still not ideal, sometimes the paint will still creep under it.
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Post by Reuben on Dec 30, 2008 17:18:17 GMT
this thread makes me want to buy more shells and paint/air-brush.....
I must admit that one of my fav parts of the hobby is designing and painting the shells - even if it means loosing 3 hours to mask - paint - cut and decal the things...
Must Resist
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Post by TryHard on Dec 30, 2008 17:22:52 GMT
best stuff I've used for masking is the Pactra liquid mask. Apply it in about 3 thickish coats, and then you can score and make nice sharp edges easily. You just need a good sharp hobby knife if your doing detail bits!
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Post by Reality Racer on Dec 30, 2008 17:24:38 GMT
So anyone know any decent masking? Top Racing masking tape. In stock. I always use it.
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Post by catapult on Dec 30, 2008 17:27:45 GMT
for airbrushing you cannot beat auto-air paint waterbased so makes cleaning simple pactra paint by parma is good but is a solvent based paint needs thinning and is a pregnant dog to clean out airbrush wise iwata if you can afford it plus youll want a dual action brush ie push down trigger = air. pull back trigger controls paint. use airbrush for all the detail work and then backout with an aerosol can maskink tape wise les was spot on 3mm 3m fineline tape then use tamiya or 3m edge tape normal tapes a no no too much bleed plus leaves a residue if left on to long.
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 18:08:15 GMT
A few years ago I brought an expensive Badger all singing air brush with more adjustments than a touring car...fantastic if you wanted fade work and was even fine unough to nearly write your name with it....But for car bodys I had and still have good results out of a simple £12 Revell twin adjustment cheapie.
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Post by mattsedgley on Dec 30, 2008 18:46:51 GMT
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 19:07:37 GMT
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by yellowshark on Dec 30, 2008 19:18:50 GMT
best stuff I've used for masking is the Pactra liquid mask. Apply it in about 3 thickish coats, and then you can score and make nice sharp edges easily. You just need a good sharp hobby knife if your doing detail bits! Spot on there Ed. I have used that for years on 1/43 modelling.
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Post by lesbaldry on Dec 30, 2008 20:02:27 GMT
best stuff I've used for masking is the Pactra liquid mask. Apply it in about 3 thickish coats, and then you can score and make nice sharp edges easily. You just need a good sharp hobby knife if your doing detail bits! Spot on there Ed. I have used that for years on 1/43 modelling. I think people were refering to genral separation of colours with straght lines, gentle curves and ease of use with out bleed over,not fine art work??......3M 1 to 3mm fine line tape is what custom pros use
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Post by keitheroonie on Dec 31, 2008 11:58:07 GMT
I've got an airbrush with the double action (press down, pull back) but no compressor, so I use the can's of gas to power it, the problem with the cans is the regulator is a bit Heath Robinson so the pressure delivery varies a fair bit. I tend to use water based enamel paints for the detailing bits, as they're only small areas and always get sealed in by the top coats of body shell paint. For my rather nice flame jobs I used the airbrush, which I filled with red paint from an aerosol can of bodyshell paint (this is tricky to do without painting your fingers so it's advisable to wear gloves). I obviously masked out the flames first, then carefully airbrushed the edge of the masking tape around the flames, I then simply randomly painted light patches of red over the whole flame area, let it dry and painted the whole area with yellow straight from the can, unmasked and painted everything silver. Finished result was great but Ollies was cracked within 2 weeks and mine lasted a couple of months ;D ;D ;D
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