|
Post by yellowshark on Mar 2, 2009 23:37:58 GMT
No time for any skimming this week, I need to burn the midnight oil researching brushless stuff on the forums ;D
Would I be right in assuming that if we get the gearing spot on and then decide to up the power setting, we should drop the gearing a tooth or two for starters, to ensure we do not overheat the thing?
And, it is like brushed where for say the Cotswolds you would up the frequencies to reduce the punch - ie reduce the power setting on the bushless esc?
|
|
|
Post by Reuben on Mar 2, 2009 23:43:00 GMT
Cant say ive done much with the lower wind's but so far with 17.5 it was gear its "sweet spot" at the particular track, and then increase punch (whilst monitoring temp) until you get a level that suits the driver on the track?
17.5 personally at full punch, but last time I ran a 13.5 I think it was at 3 with 8 being the highest..... but ill be in the same boat sunday testing punch with the gearing until I find a happy medium
|
|
|
Post by Simon Crabb on Mar 3, 2009 0:44:23 GMT
I've just come to a realisation! I gear my brushless higher than everyone else, but I'm using an older Sphere, so don't have as many punch settings, so my highest setting the timing wont be as advanced as much, hence I have to gear further to get the same out of it.
Does that make sense?
Have I just threadjacked?
|
|
|
Post by lesbaldry on Mar 3, 2009 8:09:29 GMT
This might help Pete,If I was to test a unknown motor or even a known motor on a strange track I would take an educated guess at a FDR "or chat to local expert" run the car hard for 3 mins,temp the motor, if ok run ASAP for another 2mins and recheck temp(all done on max punch)....driving styles/speedos differ so a recomended best FDR may not work for some...
Good safe starting Fdr's for most BL's and the tracks we run on would be....17.5/3.5..13.5/4.6...10.5/5.0
I tend to do most of my testing on max punch and only drop the punch in low grip/damp conditions and compensate with gearing for better top end
Tip..motor temp is grip(track and car) level dependant,If you are running a motor close to max temp(60deg C =safe,80deg max) on low grip (practice day) the motors temp will dramaticaly increase as the grip rises(race day/better set up)...thats how motors get popped!!moniter temp after every run if you want the best out of your motor.
Avoid useing "poor practice packs" to find a good FDR/temp too
Hope this makes sense..it works for me!
|
|
|
Post by yellowshark on Mar 3, 2009 18:22:07 GMT
Thanks for the help guys. Les, taking your approach. Would you still do it that way at Cotswolds or would you automatically drop the punch a bit and raise the gearing a bit before starting your practice?
|
|
|
Post by lesbaldry on Mar 4, 2009 7:55:31 GMT
Thanks for the help guys. Les, taking your approach. Would you still do it that way at Cotswolds or would you automatically drop the punch a bit and raise the gearing a bit before starting your practice? No Pete...last year I ran max punch and max brakes (needed!!) with a FDR of 4.35 (Novack 10.5)..tracks like the Cotswolds you can get away with that sort of gearing because its flowing, ie no slow stop /start corners with hard throttle to load and overheat the motor...but not knowing your motor Pete I would still be cautious with the FDR Ye olde worlde brushed motors used to give you a quick visual indication of how well you are geared befor anything nasty happened(com condition),this is not the case with brushless,the temp gun is your bible the only other clue if your BL is over geared is the motor will start to go "dull" lack punch!...this is the time to stop "QUICK"!!! Stay safe with your FDR,get the car sorted,let the grip come up then worry about best gearing/temp
|
|