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Hi
Apr 8, 2009 14:19:11 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 8, 2009 14:19:11 GMT
ive been contemplating getting an RC car , at first it was a nitro one as i used to own one , but after coming across your club , (which i never knew about!) im happy to go 1/10th electric as your track is near me (i live near calshot btw might pop down for that event to have a nosey if thats ok?) , any suggestions or advice on getting involved/what to buy etc , ive been looking at tamiya kits from fusion hobbies website atm. also whens the track avialable to use (practice etc) and membership fees etc?
many thanks , darren
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Apr 8, 2009 16:58:58 GMT
Post by Jazzler on Apr 8, 2009 16:58:58 GMT
Hi Darren, Welcome to the forum, Club fees are on the website: www.shmcc.org, just click the 'Announcements' link. (I would post it here but there's quite a bit of useful info there you might like to read too) I joined from a nitro background myself, which was fun, but racing with a decent electric car in a club I find much more fun now. On Wednesday evenings me meet at the War Memorial Hall in New Milton @6.30pm until around 10pm, (Why not pop along tonight and have a look, we're a friendly bunch) and on Sundays at the outdoor track in Bashley. I believe track is available to members for practice any time (As long as its not too late/dark) but I'm sure a member of the committee could fill you in with the exact details.. With regards to what to buy... I suggest you take a visit to Reality Racing in New Milton, its the model shop where 90% of the club members buy their stuff from and Terry the store owner will be able to sort you out with everything you need. Look forward to seeing you sometime at the club.
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Apr 8, 2009 17:09:36 GMT
Post by mattsedgley on Apr 8, 2009 17:09:36 GMT
Edit:
Jason answered before I could! well done Jason!
Matt
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Apr 8, 2009 17:17:17 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 8, 2009 17:17:17 GMT
ill try and pop along sunday , ill bring my son see if hes interested too and possibly my friend also been looking at cars , the tamiya TA05-IFS chassis has caught my eye , looking into 2.4ghz controller if possible , i prefer ol' school type but the acoms 2.4ghz one is such a good price i might go for that. just reading up and learning about the ESC's and such like. alot to take in , i know nitro cars but its a different game with electric
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Apr 8, 2009 18:03:01 GMT
Post by saintroeer on Apr 8, 2009 18:03:01 GMT
as part of your reading up, our very own ' old time racer' mr Ian Lloyd has put a 23 page guide to getting involved in the sport. it wasnt to long ago he updated it to take account of lipo's and such. its a long one but should give you the basics you need (once again there is a link on the main site for this). as well as speaking to terry at reality racing( guess what link on the main site) it would be a good idea to pop down the track before you spend your money, seeing what kit people run will help you in your decision making as if one of the more experienced racers have the same car as you it makes it easier for people to give you advice.
as jazzler said, were a very inclusive and friendly club(right up to the point when you start to beat us!) so come along and introduce yourself.
adam
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Apr 8, 2009 19:32:22 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 8, 2009 19:32:22 GMT
heres a question , how do you know what 'maH' battery to go for on a stock motor? the lipo batterys sound like a good investment.
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Apr 8, 2009 20:06:53 GMT
Post by TryHard on Apr 8, 2009 20:06:53 GMT
The IFS is a good car, more than capable to stick it up there against the better cars. It's also very tough, so great for when learning the racing trade I've been racing a TB03 recently, and well, the results have been pretty good given it's a tub, hehe.
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Apr 8, 2009 21:39:15 GMT
Post by Jazzler on Apr 8, 2009 21:39:15 GMT
heres a question , how do you know what 'maH' battery to go for on a stock motor? the lipo batterys sound like a good investment. Well, that could be a big can of worms question... As with anything, you will get what you pay for. You will see lower 'maH' rated batteries are usually cheaper, but then you will also need to take into account the 'C' rating for discharge to provide adequate power when needed, amongst other things there is 'A LOT' you can read up on on batteries. In my experience if your using a brushed setup (Brushed motor and ESC) then you will generally need a higher rated battery as they are less efficient and drain the battery (In My Experience) a LOT more than with a brushless setup. That being said, I would definitely recommend it be worth your while investing in a decent LiPo. I run a 4500maH LiPo with a brushless setup (Stock Motor) and I only need the 1 battery for a whole race meet, just topping up between races and balancing once a month or so (Also its over a year old now and still going strong). (Rather than a Ni-Cd type battery that should only really be charged once a day, cells balanced, cycled regularly etc.. which would have ended up much more expensive for me by now as the batteries don't have such a long life, and I believe I would have needed more batteries) - If your running a brushless stock motor you could get away with running a lower end 'maH' battery. - If brushed stock motor, you should aim to run a higher rated battery. - If your budget can stretch, get the best you can afford, as the battery can make a big difference. p.s. Just remember if you are buying a LiPo, make sure you get a LiPo charger, and that the battery is BRCA Legal ( www.brca.org/BRCA/elecboard/news/2009%20BRCA%202S%20LiPo%20List%20.pdf)
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Apr 9, 2009 12:27:43 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 12:27:43 GMT
so you reckon i only need one lipo battery? , i was looking into getting 2x traxpower ones which are BRCA legal afaik. ill need a lipo compatible ESC as well , i might even get a brushless motor , its my birthday on 26th april and i got part of my inheritance come through so will treat myself. is 17.5 turns the stock rating for brushless? and 27 turns for brushed?
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Apr 9, 2009 14:21:31 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 14:21:31 GMT
so you reckon i only need one lipo battery? , i was looking into getting 2x traxpower ones which are BRCA legal afaik. ill need a lipo compatible ESC as well , i might even get a brushless motor , its my birthday on 26th april and i got part of my inheritance come through so will treat myself. is 17.5 turns the stock rating for brushless? and 27 turns for brushed? Two packs are easier.... stick to brushless systems,brushed for racing is dead!as for ESC's you get what you pay for(its the fuel injection system),expect to pay £130 plus for a competitive make. Trak power Lipo's are good but befor you buy check if they fit your choice of chassis (they are rather thick) Tip talk to as many racers (not car park bashers) as you can,they will advise you on the best buys,be awear of any model shop that does not specialize in touring cars,they will probably sell you the wrong gear...Terry at Reality racing is a good club racer and knows his stuff!! Check out the for sale items on our forum,these items are from club members only and there are some bargains to be had there
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Apr 9, 2009 14:29:04 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 14:29:04 GMT
this is what i was looking into getting
Tamiya Ebbro 350R Acoms Technisport 2.4GHZ TrakPower 7.4v 4900mAh 25C LiPo Race Pack Losi 1/10 Xcelorin S 17.5T Brushless Motor Nosram Evil Brushless Reverse Pro-Peak Sigma EQ Inteligent Balance Charger
these items ok?
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Apr 9, 2009 14:42:06 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 14:42:06 GMT
the other car thats caught my eye is hpi's sprint 2 flux series
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Apr 9, 2009 14:59:35 GMT
Post by Jazzler on Apr 9, 2009 14:59:35 GMT
I have this, and have to say, for the money its a great radio to start with if you like pistol transmitters. TrakPower 7.4v 4900mAh 25C LiPo Race Pack I believe a few members use this and I have not heard any complaints. Losi 1/10 Xcelorin S 17.5T Brushless Motor A superb little motor on its own. But if you speak with terry at Reality Racing I believe he does a combo with the matching speed controller which is a very good deal. Alternatively there is one used for sale in the 'For Sale' section of the forum, could be a bargin if you definitely don't want the losi speed controller. Nosram Evil Brushless Reverse See above re esc+motor combo at reality. This is a good budget esc, although this speed controller does not have the ability to turn off reverse, so you may not be able to enter some BRCA races with it and is not customisable at all. Then again, if you get the losi combo instead that wouldn't be a problem as its totally configurable (can be plugged into usb on a computer and set up that way). Pro-Peak Sigma EQ Inteligent Balance Charger Snap, I have this too and its a good charger, I've not had any problems. As Les said though, before you go any buy anything, make sure you are sure you know what you want. Come down to the track, have a chat to a few people, see what their running. I think their may even be a test car available you may be able to use to have a brief go with(Better check with the committee on that though) then speak to Terry at Reality Racing and he will sort you out. R.E: Tamiya... Hot Bodies Cyclone.. X-Rax chassis... Well, that's a big debate. I'm purple (Cyclone), but their are a lot of people driving blue (Tamiya) amongst others and everyone thinks that theirs car/brand is better, so... good luck and welcome to the debate..
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Apr 9, 2009 15:00:32 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 15:00:32 GMT
this is what i was looking into getting Tamiya Ebbro 350R Acoms Technisport 2.4GHZ TrakPower 7.4v 4900mAh 25C LiPo Race Pack Losi 1/10 Xcelorin S 17.5T Brushless Motor Nosram Evil Brushless Reverse Pro-Peak Sigma EQ Inteligent Balance Charger these items ok? Ed's Tamiya choice as a starter chassis is excellent but Ed's a very experienced racer with very good set knowledge,it will work well in the stock class and wont brake the bank and I expect Ed has added a few hop up's to make it work ,but if you intend to be a serious racer an up graded make might be a wise choice.choose very carefully there are things to be considered Every thing else on your list is good apart from the ESC
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Apr 9, 2009 15:05:04 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 15:05:04 GMT
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Apr 9, 2009 15:12:51 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 15:12:51 GMT
[ Losi 17.5 and or combo A superb little motor on its own. But if you speak with terry at Reality Racing I believe he does a combo with the matching speed controller which is a very good deal. Alternatively there is one used for sale in the 'For Sale' section of the forum, could be a bargin if you definitely don't want the losi speed controller. See above re esc+motor combo at reality. This is a good budget esc, although this speed controller does not have the ability to turn off reverse, so you may not be able to enter some BRCA races with it and is not customisable at all. Then again, if you get the losi combo instead that wouldn't be a problem as its totally configurable (can be plugged into usb on a computer and set up that way). A wise choice...good value for money and compedative too As for Chassis " someone may dissagree ;D" if you want to go to top of the range chassis there are only two worth considering..mainly for set up help and easily available spares ...The xray 008/009 a very good car,probably a little hard to set up for a beginer and I think a little fragile for a new driver..The Cyclone TC or worlds edition..easy to set up,you will also get lots of set up help from the many members who run them them and they are tough!! Importantly both are compedative at top level out of the box with out having to spend a fortune on extra hop ups!!!
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Apr 9, 2009 20:29:13 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 20:29:13 GMT
Its a toy!...for car park bashing,might look good but wont work as a compedative racer even at club level. Sorry to be blunt but I have seen many buy this sort of car, get the bug for compedative racing and progress very quickly needing a better chassis within a couple of months...if you think you may enjoy compeeting dont waste your money on this sort of car!!.....I can name three no four club members who in the past year or so started with a car like this and wish they had'nt!.....the price of a new package cheap'ie will buy you a very good used top level racing chassis probably with a pile of spares,tyres etc ,etc too!!!!
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Apr 9, 2009 20:56:36 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 20:56:36 GMT
i thought that car was actually pretty expensive at £329 , it has brushless motor and programmable Esc , and chassis seems to be top notch too , but if you say its cheap then isnt the tamiya one cheap too? how much should i be spending then ? £400+ on just a chassis!? hpi claim its a club racer specifically designed for entry lvl comp?.
P.S. thats cheating you edited your post after i made my comment , that wasnt what you wrote originally lol!
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Apr 9, 2009 21:22:55 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 21:22:55 GMT
i thought that car was actually pretty expensive at £329 , it has brushless motor and programmable Esc , and chassis seems to be top notch too , but if you say its cheap then isnt the tamiya one cheap too? how much should i be spending then ? £400+ on just a chassis!? That type of chassis just wont be compedative,it is a beginer level car for youngsters!It sounds like you have some experiance with cars and perhaps would enjoy compeeting,my advise to you unless you can aford new is to buy the best used top level chassis you can,they are easier to drive for a start! Yes the Tamiya is cheap and as Ed said it works quite well "in stock class" but I expect he has spent quite a bit of cash on hop ups to make it work!!...Its not that cheap then! A good top level rolling chassis can be brought for as little as £150...used gear is the way to get into compedative racing realativly cheaply.. A new top level compedative car ready to race can easily cost £750 plus...thats with out transmitter and Lipos,spares etc etc
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Apr 9, 2009 21:37:51 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 9, 2009 21:37:51 GMT
[ P.S. thats cheating you edited your post after i made my comment , that wasnt what you wrote originally lol![/quote] Sorry chap ;D...just trying to save you some money and heart ache....have a chat to other club members befor you make any decision...especialy Reuben,Matt,Adam,Keith,Ollie and Jason...these guys progressed very quickly from the entry level cars and brought used top level gear and saved a fortune....one or two of them are given me a hard time on the track too ..all done inside a year
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Apr 9, 2009 22:14:59 GMT
Post by Jazzler on Apr 9, 2009 22:14:59 GMT
i thought that car was actually pretty expensive at £329 , it has brushless motor and programmable Esc , and chassis seems to be top notch too , but if you say its cheap then isnt the tamiya one cheap too? how much should i be spending then ? £400+ on just a chassis!? hpi claim its a club racer specifically designed for entry lvl comp?. P.S. thats cheating you edited your post after i made my comment , that wasnt what you wrote originally lol! I have to agree with Les on this one, that HPI your looking at is a glorified car park bashing toy (I'm not going to comment on the Tamiya as it could start a war, I'll let a Tamiya driver fill you in on that one). You should be looking for a car with a carbon fibre chassis, and some aluminium parts (Less likely to break). I paid £150+postage for my cyclone (old version) second hand off ebay, then brought some small hop up's each week/month as and when I could afford it. Don't underestimate the savings you can make from buying second hand, you can save a small fortune. Especially from a respected club racer who looks after their stuff. As Les said, I brought high end gear second hand, for the same price as low/mid end brand new gear. As I wanted to be competitive but on a shoe string budget and firmly believe I made the right choice. If you want to be competitive get decent gear as it will pay dividends if you catch the racing bug, if you just want to have a play and enjoy being part of a friendly community, with a little friendly banter and take part in a few races, then you could get away with a non high end car. My advice is get well looked after second hand high end gear to start with. (Maybe with a brand new esc and motor) Unless your wallet is bursting at the seams.. if that's the case get brand new high end. P.S. If your just looking to try and see if you like it, (Another plug.. Terry I should get commission ) Reality Racing do an eco class car called the Ansmann ARE1 for £120 ready to run (with radio gear, motor, built, etc..). Its also the car that won the stock class on wednesday night.. albeit the driver was not exactly a novice..
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Apr 9, 2009 22:40:50 GMT
Post by mattsedgley on Apr 9, 2009 22:40:50 GMT
Hi, Samuriblade. I'm Matt, I'm on the committee of SouthHants, I also look after the money for the club, and race both indoors and outdoors atleast once a week, From what i've read so far, in my opinion it would be good for you to come down and have a look at what we do and what the classes are, Les is correct in suggesting a second hand top level chassis, it's the best way to save you some cash, if you look around there's even some decent second hand ones floating about our club at present. I joined about 8 months ago now, and I've progressed reasonably quickly ( in other peoples opinion, not just my own ) Pop down the club on Sunday, I'm running the race meeting, we might even be able to get you behind the sticks of a car. Personally my car, sat there waiting for the green lights in a race owes me something in the region of £800, you can have just as much fun for £130 with an Ansmann touring car... pop down and have a chat before you spend any cash.. £150 in the wallet is better than £150 in a car you can't race with or get rid of at the end of the day.. Matt
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Apr 9, 2009 23:18:49 GMT
Post by samuraiblade on Apr 9, 2009 23:18:49 GMT
so hypothetically if i got an xray chassis , whats size shell do you need? 190mm or 200mm
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Apr 10, 2009 0:02:10 GMT
Post by mattsedgley on Apr 10, 2009 0:02:10 GMT
190mm....
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Apr 10, 2009 0:10:57 GMT
Post by mattsedgley on Apr 10, 2009 0:10:57 GMT
Also Darren, we all have our real names in our display names / personal info! once your done looking for new toys maybe you could do the same!?
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Apr 10, 2009 7:00:03 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 10, 2009 7:00:03 GMT
Hi Darren,so there you have it..if you want to just run round the track,enjoy the day with like minded "anoraks" like us and be happy with a poor handling entry level car or do you want to race and have some serious fun compeeting??...Its motor sport in minature,even the "skull dugery" and red herrings apply to get the racing edge.. all in good fun though!!
There is some rubish out there!! suck up as much infomation as you can,talk to the members,check out the gear...A used top level chassis will always re sell better than trying to get rid of a 2 month old entry level car!!
Unfortunatly I expect due to Easter not many will be racing this weekend and the following weekend a lot of the members will be racing in the SLCC at Aldershot plus its the Anual indoor speed run at Calshot the following weekend...The Aldershot track is roughly 45 mins/1 hour away,if you are keen to learn pop up for the day have a chat and see some seriously fast cars and close racing..
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Apr 10, 2009 10:08:53 GMT
Post by yellowshark on Apr 10, 2009 10:08:53 GMT
so hypothetically if i got an xray chassis , whats size shell do you need? 190mm or 200mm Darren if you have your eye on an Xray you might want to consider the T2R. This is quite a bit cheaper than the 009, uses less expensive materials in certain areas and is is pitched as a beginners car. But most of the parts are the same. Now Les may or may not be right in Xray being difficult for a newbie to setup but one thing I absolutely know (and I know/think Les disagrees ;D) is that the 008/9 on kit settings out of the box runs perfectly well around Bashley - and I am sure the T2R would be the same. And yes being sponsored by Xray of course means we are totally unbiased ;D In our 3rd season with Xray I can honestly say that their parts are of the highest quality, it maybe that Craig hits hard objects less than others, but things just do not break on the Xray and for wear and tear purposes they probably have about the best diff in the business
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Apr 10, 2009 10:43:03 GMT
Post by mattsedgley on Apr 10, 2009 10:43:03 GMT
hehe touch wood (taps head)
from all the cars i've owned which now adds up to... tc3,scythe gold (thanks les), scythe red, pro4, pro4, hb cyclone tc, and tc worlds.
The HB cars have been the most robust, i've never broken a wishbone, hub or anything else! - the tc3 was probably the weakest car out of all of them for breakages!
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Apr 10, 2009 21:04:16 GMT
Post by lesbaldry on Apr 10, 2009 21:04:16 GMT
so hypothetically if i got an xray chassis , whats size shell do you need? 190mm or 200mm Now Les may or may not be right in Xray being difficult for a newbie to setup but one thing I absolutely know (and I know/think Les disagrees ;D) is that the 008/9 on kit settings out of the box runs perfectly well around Bashley - and I am sure the T2R would be the same. Dont forget Pete I have owned and raced a 008 along side my treasured Cyclone to a pretty reasonable standard ..compared to the cyclone the 008 "IS" trickier to set up,its also trickier to work on and in my opinion more fragile,wear rate on certain items leaves a lot to be desired too...the 008/9 and the 416 arguably may be more of a nimble car in the right hands but I still feel the cyclone is still the best allround package for the clubman and new driver alike who wants to do well and learn set up!!....and yes the 008/9 does work "quite well" out of the box on our track ::)the Cyclones better though,its got proper shocks too..lol
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Apr 10, 2009 22:55:59 GMT
Post by yellowshark on Apr 10, 2009 22:55:59 GMT
wOULDN'T DISAGREE WITH THAT Les ;D;) Just wanted to make the point that an 008 out of the box will give you 19 laps with a 27T and no doubt 20 with a 17.5 ie you dont need to spend time tuning it for Bashley and the expertise to be able to do that. The only part I have had to replace on a "regular" basis is the main belt but I assume that applies to most cars? Plus 1 rear hub due to exploded bearing; diff redo every 6-9 months. Front bumper every 24 months. Drive shaft tabs I suppose about each 3-4 months and I suppose 4 or 5 steering arms over 24 months where a screw hole has stripped. Is that fragile . Even my ECS drives have now gone 5 meetings and 1 Saturday afternoon without issue after I rebuilt them properly ;D
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