|
|
Post by yellowshark on May 6, 2009 18:27:09 GMT
Got to fit our new servo. Now I have seen two views on this, which are mutually exclusive; so views/advice appreciated.
Method 1
Install the servo arm so at the neutral point it is perpendicular
Method 2
Install the servo arm so at the neutral point it is at 90 degrees to the servo output shaft, ie the shaft linking the servo arm to the servo saver.
|
|
|
|
Post by TryHard on May 6, 2009 22:30:09 GMT
Method 2.... it will give equalt throw left ot right on the steering. It's how most of the pro's have it (Groskamp and Hara are two that spring instantly to mind)... Hara Build tips and go to section 5. Ed |
|
|
|
Post by Reuben on May 6, 2009 22:59:15 GMT
Unfortunately for Hara if he had picked up one of the Alloy servo arms from reality racing then this makes this problem redundant, as you get both methods in one.
Also just to point out the obvious you may not be able to use method 2 if the end point on the servo's movement is hit when at full turn, I think thats how I managed to burn out my ace servo. :S
|
|
|
|
Post by lesbaldry on May 7, 2009 7:12:43 GMT
Theoretically method 2 as Ed said (90 deg pull) should give equal steering but drop angles come into play...some servo horns/saver adapters have off set splines so fine tuning can be made easier..its a case of playing about manually to get equal throw and use sub trim and end points as a last resort..sometime it can be fiddly to do but is worth the effort...A left/right hand threaded turn buckle between the servo arm and post can make small adjustments easier.
Important:..As long as your steering post is dead central and the steering/track arms are of equal length it shouldn't be a prob
As long as your car runs true(not crabbing) run it,trim it and recheck steering end points(equal throws) you may have to reset trany EPA's slightly.
In my thinking no car should need absolute full lock (on stops ) to be able to get round tight corners,if so the cars using "scrub steering" and the set ups wrong.
|
|
