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Post by stuartkeith on May 14, 2010 18:41:39 GMT
Whats a good base setting to work from for the outdoor circut?
Eg
Ride hight:
Camber:
Tyres:
Ackerman:
Just ordered the ezrun brushless system, and will be getting the code 2.4gz system soon, and then will be able to come down and try my luck.
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Post by jamietraylor on May 14, 2010 20:35:13 GMT
Ride height-6mm front and 6.5mm rear
camber-2mm rear and 1.5mm front
tyres-sorex 28s or 32s
droop-most people run about 5mm front and 4mm but depends on car
Not sure about ackerman(depends on the car you run as does droop)
hth
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Post by stuartkeith on May 16, 2010 11:12:10 GMT
yea helps. running cyclone. how measure droop? whats the difference between droop and ride hight anyay?
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Post by yellowshark on May 16, 2010 22:37:17 GMT
With your car at rest, ride height is the distance between the underside of the chassis and the floor - measure on a flat surface; setup board, granite kitchen worktop etc.
Droop, aka uplift, is the amount you can raise the chassis from its ride height until the rear or front wheels leave the floor. The amount of droop you have is one of the significant setups that affect your weight transfer front and rear when you brake and accelerate. EG the greater the measurement at the rear then the more weight will transfer from rear to front when you break
The more you screw in you downstop screws the less droop/uplift you will have and less weight transfer; and vice versa
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Post by lesbaldry on May 18, 2010 6:53:59 GMT
yea helps. running cyclone. how measure droop? whats the difference between droop and ride hight anyay? Most of the faster lads and some current racers have ran and still use the Cyclone,it a car that seems to work well at out track. There is a very good base set up for this car that will be stable and easy to drive but fast also.It sounds like you are quite new to set ups and putting into words how to do this and that is quite hard unless you understand the principles,the best thing to do is get your car sorted as best as poss(use kit set up to start with) bring it to the track and let someone show you the best way to do things "hands on"...its quite simple but very hard to discribe with text.....Les |
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Post by stuartkeith on May 20, 2010 17:49:57 GMT
yea helps. running cyclone. how measure droop? whats the difference between droop and ride hight anyay? Most of the faster lads and some current racers have ran and still use the Cyclone,it a car that seems to work well at out track. There is a very good base set up for this car that will be stable and easy to drive but fast also.It sounds like you are quite new to set ups and putting into words how to do this and that is quite hard unless you understand the principles,the best thing to do is get your car sorted as best as poss(use kit set up to start with) bring it to the track and let someone show you the best way to do things "hands on"...its quite simple but very hard to discribe with text.....Les I know a bit about setup, just never understood droop. So whats the good base? I did two races a few years back and one of them was a trophy day where I came 2nd or 3rd overall. Still got the trophy here! That was running my pro 4. |
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Post by Reuben on May 20, 2010 18:20:05 GMT
For the Cyclone either 5 front 4 rear or 4 front 3 rear.
4 and 3 will make the car a little more stable and easier to drive (wont be as direct as 5-4 would be).
Put the car (with shocks not attached and wheels off) onto the 10mm droop blocks and then measure the droop on the bottom edge (end) of the wishbone....even droop left to right is very important.
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Post by lesbaldry on May 21, 2010 7:08:16 GMT
Most of the faster lads and some current racers have ran and still use the Cyclone,it a car that seems to work well at out track. There is a very good base set up for this car that will be stable and easy to drive but fast also.It sounds like you are quite new to set ups and putting into words how to do this and that is quite hard unless you understand the principles,the best thing to do is get your car sorted as best as poss(use kit set up to start with) bring it to the track and let someone show you the best way to do things "hands on"...its quite simple but very hard to discribe with text.....Les I know a bit about setup, just never understood droop. So whats the good base? I did two races a few years back and one of them was a trophy day where I came 2nd or 3rd overall. Still got the trophy here! That was running my pro 4. Ok!!....Droop is a contradiction in terms really,Droop is the measured setting(wish bone drop) that allows the maximum chassis uplift from a set ride height.Ride height and droop measurements are closely related and need to be balanced.Its very rare that a car is set with more than 1mm difference in droop from front to rear,the same applies to ride height (rear normally having slightly more) Example: if your current set up likes 5mm uplift but you need to raise the chassis ride height due to track conditions,your droop will also need to be adjusted(lower) to compensate to give the same up lift otherwise the car will feel different. More measured droop ie lower in number gives more up lift. Example 1mm droop will have more uplift than 4mm. The more droop /uplift a chassis has allows:one the car to roll more ,Two it allows more weight to be thrown towards either end of the car during braking or acceleration theoretically giving more grip but too much can make the car feel like a boat to drive making the car slower with lap times and slower to react to input but stable to drive. With the Cyclone there is a base starting point for droop but I found this is dependent and will vary if the roll centers are raised or lowered ,Ie if the top and bottom roll centers are changed (the chassis will roll differently) so a different droop setting might be needed depending upon track and conditions..now things start to become complicated. HTH |
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Post by yellowshark on May 21, 2010 12:08:17 GMT
Example: if your current set up likes 5mm uplift but you need to raise the chassis ride height due to track conditions,your droop will also need to be adjusted(lower) to compensate to give the same up lift otherwise the car will feel different. Interesting one Les. I do as you say, ie if I change ride height due to bumpiness of track by .5mm, I change uplift by .5mm But I read a long time ago that the relationship was not that firm. IE changing the ride height in itself affects the handling characteristics and that you need to take that into account when changing the droop to compensate. IE does an uplift of 2mm feel the same when your ride height is 4mm as it does when your ride height is 6.5mm? What do you think? I have never tried it because at a foreign track I may well change the uplift anyway - is that becuase I changed the ride height first (always do) and am therefore compensating for the theoretical change needed as suggested above, or is the change to uplift I am making dictated by the track conditions, or is it a combination of both. Did that make sense? Quite probably a theoretical irrelevance, but interesting nonetheless  |
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Post by lesbaldry on May 21, 2010 14:59:01 GMT
Example: if your current set up likes 5mm uplift but you need to raise the chassis ride height due to track conditions,your droop will also need to be adjusted(lower) to compensate to give the same up lift otherwise the car will feel different. But I read a long time ago that the relationship was not that firm. IE changing the ride height in itself affects the handling characteristics and that you need to take that into account when changing the droop to compensate. IE does an uplift of 2mm feel the same when your ride height is 4mm as it does when your ride height is 6.5mm? What do you think? Thats purely a referance to a bumpy track like ours Pete.Unless the droop is altered to suit the higher ride hight the chassis/susspention will "top out sooner" and may cause twitchyness! Im not sure what you mean by the second part ,but if I felt the car was better/good with just 2mm uplift(doubt full) I would be seriously thinking of altering the roll centers and springing to keep the car flatter but then resetting the uplift to be at least 4/5mm.to handel the blip dots otherwise I would be running a pan car with just 2mm uplift. Heres some food for thought worth a debate "just for fun" Simon Newbury removed his droop screws and went extreemly quick at one club meet. Now! was he faster because he had plenty of roll/grip or was it because the car was easier to drive as the susspention was not "topping out" over our bumps there for not been thrown off line ....Hmmmm  ....I wonder how many of us will now try this on the "QT"  ;D |
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....I wonder how many of us will now try this on the "QT" 
;D