for all you electricians

[Reuben]

Right so my 26" LCD tv decided that it doesnt want to work anymore.

I think its the power switch (a rocker type switch) as sometimes when you flick it it powers for a very short while (like a 10th of a second) and the light goes off.

TV man said it was £45 for parts + Labour :S

but obviously if i get a switch myself its easy to swap them.

BUT!

what kind of switch is required? how many amps etc?

the current switch has 4 tabs.

any of these do?
www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=12886

[keitheroonie]

Hi Reubes, if the switch is PCB mounted then you'll need to supply me with a bit more info. the way it switches is the main issue, which pins/tabs connect to which.

It's unlikely the switch anyway, it's probably a dry solder joint. Heat up the switch tabs and resolder them, that normally does the trick

[Reuben]

excuse my ignorance but... PCB mounted?

Ill get the TV back and take a look when i can.

[Jazzler]

Jan 9, 2009 19:06:38 GMT keitheroonie said:

Hi Reubes, if the switch is PCB mounted then you'll need to supply me with a bit more info. the way it switches is the main issue, which pins/tabs connect to which.

It's unlikely the switch anyway, it's probably a dry solder joint. Heat up the switch tabs and resolder them, that normally does the trick

I agree, thats the most common of this type of problem. E.g. have you ever had a laptop, and one day it wont charge, unless you plug the charger in and hold it at an angle. Same thing.

Because the power IS getting through even for a split second, that suggests to me that the switch IS performing its switching function, and its the pressure thats applied by your finger that makes the contacts touch briefly, causing the light to flicker.

Try just re soldering the tabs, That is, unless the TV is under warranty, beacause then its someone elses prooblem

[keitheroonie]

Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

[Reuben]

right then..... TV in hand, going to try the re-solder trick.

but some information as promised.
the switch in there atm is : www.leci.cn/english/ArticleShow.asp?ArticleID=64 the RS601D 201011BB.

So if the switch is truely dead what is going to be a suitable replacement?

[Reuben]

so after re-soldering switch.... the TV now works when you apply pressure onto the switch when turning on....once on works like a charm.

but you still need to apply pressure, otherwise it wont work..... So may need re-taking apart and a complete fresh soldering.

any thoughts?

[Jazzler]

Jan 12, 2009 21:57:29 GMT Reuben said:

so after re-soldering switch.... the TV now works when you apply pressure onto the switch when turning on....once on works like a charm.

but you still need to apply pressure, otherwise it wont work..... So may need re-taking apart and a complete fresh soldering.

any thoughts?

I'm glad it worked, sort of. It you try it again, try to make sure you keep the area clean, and replace/to refresh the solder of you can. Whenever I solder on pcb boards I try to make sure that some of the solder goes into the board.

Also with those symptoms, its possible that the switch could actually be at fault. Just to be sure I'd buy a replacement..

cgi.ebay.co.uk/RS601D-ROCKER-SWITCHES-6-4-A-250VAC-6A-125A-250VAC_W0QQitemZ270287052032QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools?hash=item270287052032&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177 (Remember to specify that its the 201011BB one that you want.)

If anyone disagrees with this advice, please speak up. I'v been into electronics for years, but I'm not a qualified professional, just speaking from my past experience.

[keitheroonie]

Jan 12, 2009 21:57:29 GMT Reuben said:

so after re-soldering switch.... the TV now works when you apply pressure onto the switch when turning on....once on works like a charm.

but you still need to apply pressure, otherwise it wont work..... So may need re-taking apart and a complete fresh soldering.

any thoughts?

Hi Reubes, when you say you're applying pressure to the switch where are you putting the pressure?

It still sound like a dodgy solder joint to me though, what I think's happening is when you apply pressure to the switch you're making the connection to the pcb, rather than making a connection inside the switch itself.

Also, the link you posted for the replacement switch shows a non PCB mountable switch, you'll notice the one in the picture has a plastic cross between the tabs. If you haven't got a cross shaped slot in the PCB then it wont fit.

Try removing the old solder from the switch with a solder sucker or solder braid then clean the switch tabs with a fibreglass pencil (like the one you gave Ollie) or something simliar, then re-solder them with fresh solder, as jason said.

[Simon Crabb]

I love my solder sucker.

[Reuben]

well the switch isnt directly connected to the PCB (as in theres 2 wires that go from the switch to a molex type connector on the board) so the pressure is actually on the switch rather than the board. the other two terminals come from the kettle plug slot. And yes the swtich atm does have the black plastic cross as the switch isnt mounted on the PCB.

[Simon Crabb]

Cool, swap out the switch for something the same size, specs of it are usually moulded on the side of a rocker.

[keitheroonie]

Yea! like Simon said. or just do away with the switch and switch the tv off by the socket.

[Reuben]

so technically I could direct solder the set of wires together and do away with the switch..? or is there any resistance in the switch so i dont blow the Tv up?

also as that link spec's its 6 (4) A 240VAC / 10A 125VAC switch.... would i have to get the exact same spec switch?

[keitheroonie]

No, there's no resistance to a switch (not enough to worry about anyway).
as long as a replacement switch fits the hole and is rated at a minimum of 4A @ 240V it will be fine.
What colour wires do you have connected to the switch, is it 2 of 1 colour and 2 of another colour, if so just connect them together colour to colour and it should work fine.

[Reuben]

positive and negative I im thinking! as earth is just attached to the metal frame....

Aka blue and brown. so yeh worst comes to worse i can direct solder them, but seems to be working ok

Thanks guys!