|
|
Post by mattsedgley on May 30, 2009 22:18:00 GMT
I ran at Yateley today, had a great time, and a reasonable finish.. however.. i had a handling issue i couldn't solve.. never had it with the cyclone before and I'm no expert on set up hence my issue i expect! ran the car on a fairly standard setup, i was having to wait for the car to turn in and on exit it was a little loose on power however nothing outrageous.. Now J.W suggested that I shorten the front of the car.. which would throw more weight over the front of the car under braking and allow the car to turn in quicker.. I chose not to make this change, not because i don't beleive what he said, cause I do, but i realised it'd throw out a few different settings which would be a pain in the bottom! particularly in the time I had available.. so getting down to the question.. what does moving the rear wheels further in do? although the overall wheelbase would be shorter and could be made effectively the same as the front change.. there will obviously be a different handling characteristic.. Thoughts please all you experienced people!? Matt  |
|
|
|
Post by yellowshark on May 31, 2009 9:17:48 GMT
That is what we did and were testing yesterday Matt. Symptoms not quite the same. Our problem was mid corner understeer. As Glen said to you shortening the front puts more weight over the front. I personally think there is also an element of a shorter wheelbase rotating more around a corner. As you saw yesterday though if you go to far the car can end up very twitchy - which doesn't make it slower - in fact Craig's laptimes improved but were erratic. In the end we kept the shortened wheelbase at the front but put the wheelbase at the rear back to where it was. End result was exactly what we wanted. And yes it is not a quick trackside change with 10 minutes before your next race  |
|
|
|
Post by TryHard on May 31, 2009 17:05:30 GMT
Its actually pretty easy...
Shorter Front OR Longer Rear = More weight foreward
Longer Front OR Shorter Rear = More Weight rearward
Now, obviously, you can combine this with a shorter or longer wheelbase to suit, as pete mentions, shorter will make the car rotate faster, but more twitchy.
Regards
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by Simon Crabb on May 31, 2009 18:37:49 GMT
Wowah, hang on Ed, that sounds back to front to me!?! Shorter front I would have presumed put weight over the front surely? The wheels move backwards so get a greater share of the weight. Confused!  |
|
|
|
Post by yellowshark on May 31, 2009 19:42:01 GMT
That's my take Simon. I shortened the front, as against both, to get the combination of a shorter wheelbase and more weight on the front to get the car in tighter and kill the mid corner oversteer. Worked for us.
|
|
|
|
Post by lesbaldry on Jun 1, 2009 10:06:11 GMT
The more I do this crazy hobby the more I am convinced that what suits one DOES not suit another driver or make of chassis! I believe once a driver reaches a good standard he must go his own way with set up to gain those exra tenths....this is when things become frustrating and the hard work begins!!! Having a in depth conversation yesterday with a well known top driver who has just changed drive...to save time a set up was copied from another team driver of the same ability and to quote his words "the car was awfull" Moving the rear wish bone/hubs forward towards the center of the car should give more traction by throwing more weight over the rear wheels under acceleration. Moving the front Wishbones back toward the center of the chassis will make the steering feel more pointy during corner entry off power. I have tried these with the Cyclone (our track) the rear adjustment seem to make very little differance but the fronts another story the Cyclone has enough steering thanks  ...the worlds edition has the front wishbones further back than the TC,this makes it a very pointy car. |
|
|
|
Post by Reuben on Jun 1, 2009 11:07:32 GMT
My personal preference for the Cyclone WCE is:
2mm in front of both front and rear wishbones, 0.8 behind. With the outside (rear wishbone) shims set to 0.8mm - 2mm front to back.
|
|
|
|
Post by TryHard on Jun 1, 2009 11:30:08 GMT
woops... blame that on typing it out following three very long hard days yacht racing in the solent... it is backwards! Corrected it now (we won btw ) |
|
|
|
Post by TryHard on Jun 1, 2009 11:32:46 GMT
I have tried these with the Cyclone (our track) the rear adjustment seem to make very little differance but the fronts another story the Cyclone has enough steering thanks ...the worlds edition has the front wishbones further back than the TC,this makes it a very pointy car. You right on each chassis being different... On the 416, it's different, in that I noticed a big difference when changing the rear wheelbase, but didn't feel a great change when shortening the front... |
|
|
|
Post by Martin Young on Jun 1, 2009 11:47:20 GMT
I have tried these with the Cyclone (our track) the rear adjustment seem to make very little differance but the fronts another story the Cyclone has enough steering thanks ...the worlds edition has the front wishbones further back than the TC,this makes it a very pointy car. I agree i played with the wheelbase yesterday and moving the rear hubs made very little difference, that was until i tried the alloy rear deck and then wheelbase settings made a huge difference. If anyone can explain that please do because i don't understand it. |
|
|
|
Post by lesbaldry on Jun 1, 2009 12:14:06 GMT
I have tried these with the Cyclone (our track) the rear adjustment seem to make very little differance but the fronts another story the Cyclone has enough steering thanks ...the worlds edition has the front wishbones further back than the TC,this makes it a very pointy car. I agree i played with the wheelbase yesterday and moving the rear hubs made very little difference, that was until i tried the alloy rear deck and then wheelbase settings made a huge difference. If anyone can explain that please do because i don't understand it. The chassis was flexing untill the change to the stiffer rear deck Martin ...the stiffer the chassis/top decks the more noticable subtle changes are....having the chassis "too flexi" in good grip conditions I think can mask poor set up in other areas,especialy on fast tracks...been there,made that mistake  Yesterday proved this...I heard Adur was high grip so I went with a medium top deck/flex,slightly stiffer springs and high roll center..Wrong the grip was odd,a bit slidy..I ended up with stiff top decks,softer springs and lower roll centers ....and shorter rear wheel base to gain traction....As for Adur track....wow!!! brill to drive!! Hey Ed dont worry mate I know what senile dementia's like  ;D |
|
|
|
Post by mattsedgley on Jun 1, 2009 17:58:32 GMT
Glenn's a star! not only was he fine with me getting JW/GW confused again! but! he explained what it'd do.. I drove Adur tried the change it was great! Adur's Track was amazing...2nd in the A at Yateley followed by 3rd in the A at Adur! fantastic weekend! darn that Keiren Clift, and Matt Butcher for being so fast!!! Matt |
|
...the worlds edition has the front wishbones further back than the TC,this makes it a very pointy car.
Yesterday proved this...I heard Adur was high grip so I went with a medium top deck/flex,slightly stiffer springs and high roll center..Wrong the grip was odd,a bit slidy..I ended up with stiff top decks,softer springs and lower roll centers ....and shorter rear wheel base to gain traction....As for Adur track....wow!!! brill to drive!!
;D