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Post by justchris on Jul 14, 2011 8:42:12 GMT
Hi everyone, After my last meeting liam spotted some broken and damaged parts between rounds. My question is what do others look for and check between heats.
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ianlloyd
Lapping the Back Markers
Posts: 932
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Post by ianlloyd on Jul 14, 2011 9:24:30 GMT
Ususally for me it's a quick check for loose screws, a visual check of camber, state of tyres, anything that could be broken or missing, damaged wiring etc. Mainly a quick check of the general state of the car. As last night after the first race I found some screws missing on the rear shock tower. I have found on the TC6 that screws come loose quite regularly.
I tend not to check set up too much as find that not much seems to change. It's only of something "feels" wrong that I will check set up in detail.
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Post by Reuben on Jul 14, 2011 13:00:08 GMT
agree with above, give all corners a wiggle side to side, up and down to check for any abnormal play. The spin the drive train by hand for any binding, and the most IMPORTANT bit - Check your diff is still smooth (especially in the higher power classes).
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Post by justchris on Jul 14, 2011 14:40:40 GMT
I thought it was poorly assembled on my part but you seem to have noticed the same thing ian going to use a medium thread lock from now on.!!!!
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Post by lesbaldry on Jul 14, 2011 21:33:16 GMT
I thought it was poorly assembled on my part but you seem to have noticed the same thing ian going to use a medium thread lock from now on.!!!! Some of the counter sinking can be a bit rough,the screws will gradually bed in to the carbon,just becareful of using lock tite you may not get the screws out again should the hex's get worn,The best gear is Tamiya Soft lock should you need it,just the right amount of "grab" to the thread. Pit checks.Apart from a visual quicky and especially if you have had a tumble or shunt....Prority and "THE" most important: 1st put the chassis on two equal blocks directly over the axels to check for tweak then do the load "n" lift test as I showed you,Simple'z,even easier, quicker and will show up any tight spots etc etc ......no car will handle well with a tweaked chassis!!
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Post by yellowshark on Jul 14, 2011 21:59:20 GMT
Camber – I find on the XRAY that this can easily move .25 -.5 degree depending on number of bumps. I guess my eyesight is not as good as Ian’s, I use a gauge! Tyres - to ensure serviceable, ie tread OK and rubber still attached to the rims Might be an XRAY thing – drive shaft pins Diff – has the tightness moved; is it smooth/rough If the car has had a major bump – I check for tweak if there is enough time between rounds to do something about it XRAY screws tend not to unscrew, honest. So I do not religiously check the screws at any time; but I am sure that subconsciously I press things like shock towers to ensure tight, scan chassis screws etc
Plus – at big meetings, ie an hour between rounds, or between heats & finals at club meetings Shocks – rebound OK? Droop and ride height and tweak Belt tightness and wear
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Post by lesbaldry on Jul 14, 2011 22:13:03 GMT
A tweak after a bump is normaly the top deck dissplaced and takes seconds to put right with the blocks ..........you will never see my cars shoot side ways under power and they track like an arrow too
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Post by yellowshark on Jul 14, 2011 23:14:09 GMT
And I always thought your straight trajectory was due to your hands Les ;D
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