110119_STOCK Firmware

[dullett]

help needed!
I am currently running 100518_STOCK firmware and have just about got my head around the settings, I have now found out there's the new 110119 firmware,I have looked at the instructions and it seams to be alot more complicated than 100518, so I have two questions:

1- Is it worth updating to 1109119 over 100518?

2-Does any one have a good starting setup for 1109119 running 13.5 at Bashley that they would be willing to share?

I would be grateful for any help. ta.

[Reuben]

1 - yes 119 has a lot more available low end punch, I thought 518 was better low end punch until I tried it again sunday gone. 119 is superior in every way. Also there is software 211 which is newer than 119, but 119 is better

2 - settings, leave everything as standard on the pre-programmed settings for 119 except increase Boost to 40 degrees and decrease DRRS to 7.

so should be similar to:
DRRS: 7
Boost Timing: 40
Turbo Timing: 24
Boost per rpm: 350
Time Delay: 0.3s
Turbo Slope 18degrees/per/s

FDR: 7.2

no end-bell timing on the motor, btw which motor?

[dullett]

Thank you very much, that is really useful!

Running a speed passion v3.0. What sort of temps are you getting from the motor when you run the setting you suggested?
Many thanks.

[Reuben]

range from about 55 - 70 depending on the outside temp, when it was HOT outside, like 25/26 degrees thats when It hit 72degrees, average day is about 65ish. that was with a Trinity Duo3 motor, so with the SP you may need to gear up a little, like a tooth more than what 7.2 would give you. but 7.2 might be a good starting point

[lesbaldry]

With any unknown Firm wear or motor I would be a little weary of recommended settings unless they were from a known driver that's had experience of both. Some motors can come with quite a lot of "out of the box" timing advance,this needs to be taken into consideration and possibly subtracted befor adding lots of recomended boost timing...or you could end up cooking it!
TBH I never got on with the SP V3, I never liked the power delivery ,but this was in the early days of boosted speedo's so I probably never understood the settings correctly But a "fast" friend of mine swears by them,He assures me this motor like to Rev some, so a small track like Bashley would prob need a FDR close to 7.8/9 (I run a revy 17.5 at 7.3 and a torquy 13.5 motor like a D3 at 7.56) using a lower boost but plenty of turbo(50/50 split) this should keep temps safe,give plenty of punch and good top end ,but just be careful the turbo don't cut in on an awkward place on the track,start rpm will be critical to the "feel"of the motor too.the other option for small tracks is to just use boosted timing, IE turn off the turbo(0deg) and just add boosted timing till you reach safe and max temps,this way at least the turbo wont kick in in the wrong place and unsettle the car.
The 119 FW only has a total of 60deg advance that can be split between boost and turbo,adding more turbo timing to total above 60deg will only be lost.

Speedo setting can be as personal as a chassis set up!

[Reuben]

Jul 30, 2011 16:29:38 GMT @lesbaldry said:

Speedo setting can be as personal as a chassis set up!

100% agreed, and Dullet (Dave I guess?) you can always come ask at any race meeting at bashley if you want to check something or talk about it . Otherwise we just get bored and start talking about the useless stuff.

one thing to bear in mind with 119 vs other SP/HW software is that 119 is unique in the way that Turbo and Boost are completely seperate, so you do not need to compensate the Boost level to ensure Turbo is coming in before the end of the straight.

also with high turbo settings you need to be on full throttle to make it turbo - whereas with boost it works for the whole throttle range, so you dont quite need to be as committed to full throttle (you get a smoother drive). But as Les said above, this is at the expense of heat because you are using more timing most of the time rather than just at full throttle.

so again its personal preference ;D

[dullett]

Thanks that's brilliant advice! Are the two different firmware's similar enough so I can transfer the boost, turbo and other main settings across from 100518 to the 110119, and still achieve almost the same punch and top end?

Many thanks.

[lesbaldry]

Jul 30, 2011 19:23:06 GMT dullett said:

Thanks that's brilliant advice! Are the two different firmware's similar enough so I can transfer the boost, turbo and other main settings across from 100518 to the 110119, and still achieve almost the same punch and top end?

Many thanks.

No I would'nt do that the Numbed setting do not transfer well between the two FW's,hopefully you should have the 2 in 1 set up box? this gives measurements rather than just numbers with the 119

Just make sure your motor has little or no static timing befor you start adding lots of boosted timing.A motor such as a X12 comes with 18deg (I think) and the Graupner even more. Ive seen many get cooked as the owners done realize this and pile on too much boost timing.Adding 40deg of boost and 20 of turbo to motors like these will cook them within a few laps,especialy with a low fdr!
One safe way of tuning would be to set turbo to 0 add about 25/30 deg of boost ,gear the motor so it tops out about 2/3rds of the way down the strait, then gradually add turbo at 5or10deg at a time to give the motor some top end,This way the motor will be geared for good infield punch but be using the turbo for top end speed.you can gradually add more boost if the temps are good,Boost amount and the way its delivered (boost timing acceleration) is the quickest to add heat and its the most used on the track,turbo and turbo slope rate are a little less critical to heat.....I certainly wouldn't recommend settings to any one unless I knew the motor and the track it's used on.Ive seen toooo many motors go up in smoke this way!!....good luck,tuning a motor to find the sweet spot can be a slow process.Just remember maxing out the settings is not necessarily the fastest.

Tip to find the sweet spot,if you think you are close to it and your temps are safe ,increase 1 tooth (48dp) on the pinion,drop the boost and turbo 5deg run the car and check temps and speed,if the cars slower with punch and top end but still with safe temps drop one tooth from the starting point but raise boost and turbo 5 deg from starting point,again checking temps,If the cars faster you are pretty much close to the sweet spot and will only be a mater of fine tuning with the start RPM, deg's per rpm, and playing with the boost and turbo settings ie add 5deg boost but reduce 5 deg turbo or visa versa.....Its a balancing act between fdr and deg's of advance...and all makes of motor differ,so does driving styles

[issac]

just to add to what les has said, before use check that 0 deg of timing on the motor is 0 degs.
for example the novak has plus and minus so some would assume that the middle is 0 degs but its actually 30 degs of timing and if you added the 64 degs from the speedo then you've just put 94 degs of timing into a motor - more than enough to cook it!

[dullett]

Thanks, iv still got alot to learn so any advice is great! I managed to get it all sorted on sunday. Started low on the boost and turbo and then gradually built it up and ended up with a very similar setting to the one Reuben suggested. Motor temp didnt go over 62c all day,so still got a bit of safety margin and abit more room to play with settings.
Thanks for the advice ...dave

[yellowshark]

Aug 1, 2011 17:37:30 GMT @lesbaldry said:

.Just remember maxing out the settings is not necessarily the fastest.

Yup we took 7 or 8 degrees off our 13.5 boost on Sunday and were .2 to .3 sec faster (manual timing but sufficently repeated to be reasonably accurate)- back to back testing during practice

Mind you we maxed out a 10.5 at Aldershot 2 years ago and that was soooooo much fun until it blew up on lap 12 - best £70 we ever spent ;D